We've selected seven cameras ranging from compacts to full-frame, all of which are easy to operate. Video features have become an important factor to many photographers when choosing a new camera. Read on to find out which cameras we think are best for the videophile. What's the best camera for travel? Good travel cameras should be small, versatile, and offer good image quality.
In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for travel, and recommended the best. Submit a News Tip! Reading mode: Light Dark. Login Register. Best cameras and lenses Started Jun 5, Discussions. Forum Threaded view. Jun 5, I downloaded the trial version 2. Any ideas?
Nikon D Nikon D If you believe there are incorrect tags, please send us this post using our feedback form. It work fine with my E! Double check the cable.
Other link for Camera Control Pro 2.8 Serial Number:
Same cable works on the desktop. I think I need version 2. I'll keep trying to update. The secret is to first download 2. That failure may simply be a problem with Nikon's website. I don't know.
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Just get it from the Nikon web site! Harry Sinniah's gear list: Harry Sinniah's gear list. F Forum M My threads. You may also like. This is Camera Control Pro 2. Camera Control Pro 2. License Agreement.
Nikon Corporation. This Nikon License Agreement Agreement is a legal agreement between you either an individual or. Support for the D has been added.
Support for Nikon Message Center 2 has been added. The viewer built into Camera Control. Contact us; F. They are not the superior red LED overlays of the D5 's finder. The AF system is fast and agile. If you only use one AF sensor, all AF systems since the s are about the same. What makes the D so great is that it works in any light and that its many multi-AF-sensor modes immediately pick out which sensors to use all by itself.
There is no lag, and you don't have to select sensors manually unless you want to. Facial recognition works great, but you have to turn it on first; it's off by default. Now the D does a fantastic job of instantly finding faces and focusing on the near eye as it should:.
As you can see, the eyes have it. The camera didn't get fooled and focus on a closer shoulder instead. The new thumb nubbin is handier and faster than the big rear multi-controller for selecting AF points manually, but it can't be set to override Auto AF-Area selection. I suggest that it should be able to do this: automatically swap to manual AF point selection when the thumb nubbin is hit, even if it's in the Auto AF-Area select mode invention disclosure PM, Friday, 06 October The D is Nikon's best ever technically, but has mostly the same ergonomics as past Nikons other than the illuminated buttons and flipping touch screen.
Once you've woken the D by pressing one of those buttons the first time, it responds quickly. It handles well even while wearing gloves. I use my Head Sensatec touch-screen compatible gloves while shooting in the cold, and the fingers work the Nikon's touch screen as well as my iPhone X. Only the buttons light, not the markings beside them, so while it's easy to see the Key lock button because the button is backlit, you won't see the "? Likewise you'll see the trash can button backlit in the dark, but you won't see the red FORMAT mark printed on the camera body.click
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It always takes a moment for the menus to appear after pressing the MENU button. In real-world shooting, that's a moment too long. The menus are very legible, probably because they have to be big enough and spaced far enough apart to work with touch selection. There are no presets; no U1, U2 or U3 settings that would let us immediately reset the camera to all our chosen settings we've stored for different kinds of scenes.
Canons and Sonys do this, and Nikon's cheaper cameras like the D can, but Nikon's better cameras can't. Instead, the D is stuck with Nikon's crummy "Settings Banks" that came out in with the D2 series. These settings banks can't be locked; once you select them all they do is recall however the camera was set when you last used that bank. Worse, there are two sets of banks: a Custom Settings bank and a Shooting bank.
You have to go through a zillion clicks to recall both of them. Major things like the advance mode and autofocus settings are not recalled; you still have to change these manually as well as having to recall both banks! This lack of presets is my biggest complaint against the D The D and D and numerous other top Nikon have had this same flaw for years. Nikon has had this down for decades and decades, and their meters get better with every revision. I've never used a camera with a more accurate meter under every kind of condition than my D What can still fool the D is a subject against a dark black background.
If the subject is small, even with all the meter pixels it will tend to overexpose the subject. I don't bother with Spot meters; I just dial-in some negative exposure compensation and I'm good. What is extraordinarily good about the D is it finally gets backlit people exposed correctly. In other words, it correctly shoots for the faces and give much more exposure than if it didn't see them, as was the problem with older cameras.
It has the same finder as the D Nikon claims it's slightly bigger, but I don't notice any difference unless I hold one up to each eye and look through them both at the same time to compare, where they are slightly different. The data along the bottom are white digits on black. Only the flash ready bolt is orange.
Better cameras like the D5 show these lit in a red that doesn't block the underlying subject. The D can light the black boxes in red in the dark, but in light or dark the selected AF area boxes always block whatever is under them on the focus screen. The in-finder level display, as in the D, is nearly invisible. It's two bar graphs, one along the bottom and one along the right side of the active image area, both covering the image.
Because Nikon's trying to keep them from covering too much of the image they are black just like the active AF areas , they are too small to be that obvious. It's much clearer on the rear LCD if you see it there. Much better would be lit white bar graphs outside the image along the top and side, but no; all they are is small black dots along the edges of the finder image.
Mirrorless cameras do a much better job of showing the levels in their finders, but they also are much more distracting. I confirmed that my D easily runs at a real 7 frames per second in its C H Continuous High mode as set on the top left dial. High ISO performance is spectacular. What really makes the D stand out is not how high it goes, but how spectacular it looks at the mid-range ISOs we use every day, like at ISO and ISO which look as good as ISO 64, even as seen at high-magnification in the crops below.
At H2 ISO , it seems our setting is ignored. As I showed at the top , it's insane how great the photos look at 5-digit ISOs: just like daylight! Below are real-world sample images. These were shot at dusk. With up to second exposures the sky gets much darker from frame to frame as the evening progresses. The light on the trees comes from a fountain in which the waves make the light on the palms vary from frame to frame.
These samples are not supposed to look the same because the subject changed from frame-to-frame. Many of these are long exposures, so the palm trees are moving at the lower ISOs, and noise reduction is blurring the black-on-blue at the highest ISOs. Dark fronds against a blue sky are hard to catch here. ISO 64 and of course are super great; they are the lowest regular ISOs and what you should use for all photography.
As ISO increases, it doesn't get much grainier because noise reduction works harder and harder as the ISO increases, but noise reduction also smudges-over subtle details.
Look at the upside-down tile on the bottom of the arch and you'll see it start to get softer at higher ISOs. Noise reduction sees it as minor texture, and thus smudges it over to hide what it thinks might be noise, not knowing that it's upside-down tile. The top H2 ISO , has shifted colors, and many details are gone - even the tiles on the front of the home are blurred by noise reduction, and the blue sky is mottled. The D's HDR has no ability to auto-align images, so you usually need a tripod for the best results.
While Canons often have an Auto Align option making hand-holding feasible, the Canon 5DSR takes about 20 seconds to process each image! The D takes only about two seconds to process each HDR image, during which time the camera locks-up and you'll see "JOB" blinking in the finder. The D automatically corrects for lateral color fringes, regardless of what lens you use.